There is a wonderful incongruity to the work of illustrator-turned fashion designer Pierre-Louis Mascia.

His method is based on an idea of esthetic melange and far-stretching metissage, yet the result retains a lucid, almost Cartesian quality. Where others seek bursting retinal boldness, and even a certain messiness, in the unexpected associations of the collage technique, Mascia uses the same identical tools – sudden about-turns, non-orthodox parallels, visual duplicity – to express clarity.
He does so even when opting for retina-burning colors and hypnotic geometries, or when he seamlessly merges the achingly sharp and the softly organic in the same cadre. “I conceive my prints as if they were paintings or artworks – says Pierre-Louis, surrounded by the methodic, elegant chaos of his atelier in Toulouse, France – In this sense, I feel more like a dessinateur than a fashion designer. The mix of different patterns, a constant attention to the color palette and the use of certain materials define the identity of my collections”.

A quick look at the light-flooded room – a sunny apartment in Toulouse’s arty district – offers proof. Mascia’s compositions live as 2D patterns, but they usually begin in 3D, getting closer and closer to their final flat incarnation through a process of soulful, if relentless, edit, only to get volume again when worn by a living body.
Here is a mix of fabrics or thorn book pages, laid out on the floor in op art mode – a black and white print may arise from this, or maybe not; stacks of faded and frayed wallpapers on an angle will be put to good use as soon as Pierre-Louis feels ready, and the same will happen to the endless selection of vintage pieces neatly packed on clothes racks; even a black lace curtain shielding the tall windows from the blinding Southern France light or the way books are arranged into the crammed bookshelf suggest an approach to visual composition that is all one’s own, and that may turn anytime into art-to-be-worn. “It all comes from the guts” explains Pierre-Louis, concisely. He doesn’t need to add anything: the work truly speaks by itself, and the author prefers it that way.

Born in 1968 and schooled at Toulouse’s renowned Beaux Arts academy, Mascia landed in fashion as an illustrator. He quickly built a reputation as one of the industry’s most original and sharply poetic eyes until, in 2007, he met a family of Italian entrepreneurs of large views – the Uliassi brothers, owners of the Achille Pinto






printing factory in Como, a local excellence with eighty years of glorious history – and launched his namesake collection of printed scarves.

The endeavor met with immediate success and quickly grew to include knitwear, windbreakers, cushions and ever blankets. The electricity of subdued contrast is what makes the PLM label so special: design is clean, almost minimal, while the eye is constantly entertained by the psychedelic yet rigorous whirlwind of motifs and colors.
What you get is a productive yet peaceful fight of Bauhaus strictness and Rococo abandon: a perfect mix of control and anarchy.

While many others designers working with prints try desperately to reference art, only to lose to obviousness, Mascia follows a deeply artistic work method, but refuses to present himself grandly as an artist. This humble pragmatism makes him both an outsider and a winner. “I just follow my instinct. Each season I begin by mixing references, patterns and designs, then reduce it down progressively into a collection” he says, matter-of-factly, sounding a bit like the William Burroughs of applied arts he actually is.
Cut-up is so integral to whatever he does, in fact, from the prints he conceives to a lifestyle of constant commuting between France and Italy, it might just be the essence of the way he sees life in general: borderless and open.

Quiet yet stubborn, Mascia is a true original: a voice out of the chorus and a creative spirit marching to his own drum.
On a side note, as the fashion system grows prone to conformity, it is quite exciting to acknowledge such a singular work is made possible by the enlightened open-mindedness of Italian entrepreneurs. “Without Achille Pinto, I could never do anything like this” concludes Pierre Louis, adding gratitude to his list of qualities.

For the records, he still works as an illustrator, and is widely sought after for that as well. He might be one of the few living designers gracing the pages of a book, a one-off Coca Cola can and coiling around the neck of a perfect stranger at once.


by Angelo Flaccavento
for Hunter Fashion Magazine #24













For next winter's signature collection, Pierre-Louis Mascia found inspiration
in an unexpected and multifaceted visual universe.

Eclecticism and diversity enliven the spirit of the brand between decorative
density and extreme metissage, as in a wonderful Wunderkammer.
Many different things inspired the creative eye of the designer.

The colors and textures of Palazzo Fortuny in Venice,
venue of the latest exhibition of Tàpies paintings.
The world of curious trivia and rare items at "De Vera" in New York.
The Scottish clans tartans recalling the shamanic Iranian Kasgaï carpets.
A hemp Christ by the English artist Steve Goddard.
The rythms and rap of M.I.A.
The quiet words by writer and poet Charles Juliet.

Three-dimensional patterns and graphics of dense wool fabrics, the seduction
of layered lace that becomes a bygone memory and a real time emotion.
Dots-checks-lines: the rhythm of black and white is mixed with hints of
paisley flowers and Oriental rugs.
Afro suggestions are an amazing development in check and formal
multicolour menswear for the New Dandy.

The man is looking into the future of a recent past.




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France

Paris - Avedis
Paris - Crimson
Paris - L'Eclaireur
Paris - Jacenko
Ajaccio - Anareda
Besançon - Globe
Biarritz - Duchatel
Bordeaux - Parenthese
Cassis - Lulli
Dijon - Show-Room
Lyon - Capsule by Eso
Marseille - Allan Joseph
Monaco - Society Club
Montpellier - Jean Gaillard
Nantes - Passage 31
Portovecchio - Carioca
Starsbourg - Albe
Toulon - Joe Allen
Toulouse - Cartouche
Toulouse - Département Féminin
St Tropez - Tahiti

Germany

Berlin - Hecking
Berlin - KaDeWe
Hamburg - Braun

USA

New York - Bergdorf
New York - Neiman Marcus

Canada

Ontario - Holt Renfrew
Italy

Alba - Vincenti
Ancona - Coltorti
Arezzo - Sugar
Bergamo - Biffi Boutique
Catania - Papini
Ceggia - Eraldo
Como - Tessabit
Cremona - Cose
Firenze - Luisa Via Roma
Forte Dei Marmi - Morini
Gioia Del Colle - Leccese
Jesolo - Tandem
Livorno - Cuccuini
Mantova - Bernardelli
Milano - Biffi Boutique
Milano - Excelsior
Milano - Pellini
Milano - Pupi Solari
Napoli - D'Aniello
Palermo - Dell'Oglio
Palermo - Torregrossa
Pavia - Cortesi
Perugia - Uberto Cantarelli
Portocervo - Le Civette
Roma - Nia Boutique
Siena - Cortecci
Trani - Nugnes
Treviso - Al Duca d'Aosta
Voghera - Pomposi

Spain

Madrid - Delitto & Castigo

Austria

Wien - Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe
UK

London - Liberty
London - Paulie

Belgium

Aalst - Bogaert
Anvers - Verso
Bruxelles - Cachemire Coton Soie
Gent - Ile En Ville
Liège - Irina Kha
Mortsel - Edith Of Oxford
Wavre - Amalfi

Luxembourg

Luxembourg - Little Smets

Netherlands

Amsterdam - Pauw

Switzerland

Geneve - Charivari
Luzern - Comme Ca Fashion
Neuchatel - Mathilda

Norway

Oslo - Ms Icon

Russia

Moscow - Cashmere & Silk
Moscow - Iris Gallery
St Petersbourgh - Griaznova
Japan

Tokyo - Astraet
Tokyo - Figaro
Tokyo - Ginza Mitsukoshi
Tokyo - Hankyu Mens Tokyo
Tokyo - Isetan Shinjuku
Tokyo - La Gazzetta 1987
Tokyo - Matsuya Ginza
Tokyo - Shibuya Hikarie ShinQs
Tokyo - Wako
Nagoya - Felisi Selection Nagoya
Nagoya - JR Nagoya Takashimaya
Osaka - Hankyu Men's Osaka
Osaka - La Gazzetta 1987
Fukuoka - Felisi Hakata

China

Beijing - Strasburgo
Shanghai - Strasburgo

Hong Kong

The Lane's
The Swank

South Korea

Seoul - Boon The Shop
Seoul - 10 Corso Como

Singapore

Club 21

Taiwan

Taipei - Artifacts







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